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JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. The Artful Bodger's furnace book. Thread starter mjonkman Start date Mar 10, Joined Apr 18, Messages I've been thinking about making myself a home foundry furnace this summer that would be capable of running on either propane or used oil. Ideally I could start by using a propane burner and then over time upgrade to a used oil burner - assuming there is nothing radically different in the design of the rest of the furnace.
I'm curious whether anyone here has made the furnace in question and whether they felt the book was worth the cost or whether there might be a different site and or plans available that would be as good or better. I'd eventually like to melt cast iron in the furnace though I'm not going to start by pouring cast iron.
Sincerely Mark R. Joined Jun 17, Messages 2, I like the propane idea better because it's cleaner. I built one 18 years ago that ran on propane. I don't have it anymore, my buddy has it. I used a shop vac in the 'blow' mode for the blower. When I built it, there wasn't a whole lot of info on the web about building the burner part.
I kinda winged it and finally did get it going well. There must be way more info on building these things online now. Joined Nov 23, Messages Joined Sep 9, Messages 8.
Joined Apr 23, Messages 2, Hi Mark, Welcome, whereabouts are you located. Probably the most knowledgable bunch of blokes out there on the subject of melting metal. And everything they offer is free. GarageGuy Active User Registered. Joined Nov 9, Messages I'm also planning to build a foundry furnace this summer. I was going to use a popular 30 gallon steel drum lined with refractory cement design. I found a drum on CL over the winter.
There are a number of videos on YouTube. Many are truly frightening with the lack of safety involved, but some of the ideas and designs are alright if you add the proper safety gear. There is a fellow in the UK I think who seems to be very successful with cast iron. His YouTube channel is "luckygen".
The furnace is likely the cheapest and easiest part. The crucible and other tools, tongs, pyrometer, casting sand, frames, etc will be much more expensive and challenging to find. Best of luck. Keep us updated with your progress, and I will do the same. Joined Jan 15, Messages I second the Alloy Avenue, I'm also a member there.
I have 2 furnaces mine are both physically fairly small one is a crucible furnace which is most common , the other is a dierct fired tilting furnace that i melt all the cast in, the dross remains in the tilting furnace and is dumped at the end of a run.
I completed a run in the last 3 hours including the tear down on the motors. I do three and sometimes four runs a week. The burners would work equally well on propane. Oil is going to be the what you end up with in the end if you are going to do cast Iron in any amount, it can be done with propane and natural gas but they both have a lower flame temperature than oil does. Oil also burns slower so the heat is more spread out than with gas flames.
I keep my furnaces as small as I do so that i can pick either one up and carry it without any problems. Good luck and be safe, shoes long pants, gloves, eye protection, and good ventilation. Thank you all for the responses. Another site worth mentioning is backyardMetalcasting. I'd say myfordboy's videos are why I want to try metal casting - with the full reason to make model engine parts vs.
Pattern making is something I think I would enjoy immensely as I'm an avid woodworker as well. But I should be able to build a furnace that would be able to be used with either propane or used oil and simply swap the appropriate burner.
I think based on what I've read its a tad safer or at least not near as hot though hot enough to do the same damage I suppose. Depending on budget when I get to that point I may just buy a reasonably sized crucible vs using a steel crucible.
I'll definitely take a look at the Alloy Alley and probably sign up for that forum - it appears to actually be related to the backyardmetalcasting site. Thanks again for the responses and if you have more suggestions, I'm all ears. Joined Feb 16, Messages Joined Aug 5, Messages Aluminum takes a lot of energy to melt, even though it melts at a lower temperature. The high conductivity of Al makes the spatter stick to you versus bounce off of you like Fe.
Invest in the proper PPE, as medical bills cost more than anything else. I went ahead and ordered the book. As per IronMonger I think it will give me at least give me a starting point as well. Thanks again Sincerely Mark R. What are the advantages and disadvantages of a direct pour furnace? I'm thinking of using waste oil as a fuel free fuel is a good thing , and was wondering if it was a good match for this type of design. Thanks for your thoughts, GG.
Like our site? Upgrade to Donating Member status and remove ads! Both furnaces start with a 1" koawool, my crucible furnace just has a ceramic hardface that i replace as needed.
Bear in mind that niether of my furnaces are intended to do cast iron. The purpose of the tiliting furnace was to melt down raw scrap aluminum, I put the scrap in as large as it can handle, about 8" square by 15" long is what I aim at for size, The dross floats on top of the aluminum and heavier metals like iron sink to the bottom, I don't let anything big stay in the pour but i don't fight broken off bolts etc.
When i pour the aluminum it pours out from under the dross and leaves the heavey on the bottom. I then put it into the crucible furnace to flux and degass. The only draw back that i could see with the type furnace that i'm running the burner needs to be able to run clean in open air and still run ok when the furnace is closed up. I would thing that a Delvan siphon type burner should work ok you may need to keep a constant ignition source to prevent flame out when your first starting the breakdown processs because the top is normally off the furnace untill it gets broken down.
My gas burners don't have a flame out issue but they will flame out if the scrap has oil etc on it because of insufficient air. If I start getting smoke i cut back the gas so the air is excess and the oil etc. That process would probbaly not be as easy firing oil. The only thing i have found that won't burn clean is even small amounts of rubber that is used for a vibration isolators.
I strip every bit of that off of the casting because of the not burning clean. Joined Jul 26, Messages 4,
BONECO U7142 PDF
The Artful Bodger's furnace book
Also in the book, I describe how I make my cast iron crucibles. Many people melt aluminium, brass and bronze in steel pots, the trouble with steel is that it "flakes" when it gets hot enough. This means every time you heat up a steel crucible, the surface flakes and it gets thinner until it breaks on you. Also these steel flakes will find their way into your molten metal and end up in your casting, usually right in the middle of the most visible place! Click on picture for a larger view. Although they will be heavier than a steel pot, cast iron crucibles will retain the heat for much longer once they're removed from the furnace. Collect a load of scrap cast iron for free!
IKAN KETANG-KETANG PDF
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Imitative or imaginative skill applied to design. Craftsman specialising in pole-lathe turning esp. I have a passion for woodlands and woodland craft. I was lucky enough to be bought up near the Green Wood Centre where as a child I got to watch and play with traditional woodworking techniques and pole lathes. After studying environmental management, I volunteered with a range of woodland craftsmen before doing a three year Coppice Crafts Apprenticeship with Darren Hammerton. At about the same time I met the chairmaker and teacher Paul Hayden who also taught me a great deal, and whom I now teach chairmaking with at Westonbirt National Arboretum. I have been making and selling my chairs for over ten years, and was awarded Balvenie Young Craftsman of the Year in