AUDIOXPRESS 2009 PDF

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Burson Audio Modules For this review I received two clear light anodized aluminum alloy family, or , I think extruded tubing cutoffs 1. For some reason, I expected. Teflon, but this seemed to be silicone over fiberglass. Each card had 16 TO92 cased semiconductors, 15 fixed resistors, a single silver mica capacitor, and a Bourns multiturn cermet trimpot. The same gain code blue was marked on all devices.

Three jumpers connected the two cards. Four 20 gauge clad cop-. Overall, the build quality was good except for the three inter-card jumpers. They had been trimmed so that the cutting action also trimmed the solder joint.

According to IPC standards, you should cut the lead and not the fillet. When the fillet is damaged it should be reflowed. The single-page directions packed in the tube contained only the briefest of mechanical and electrical specifications. The mass was really A CD player seemed to be called for because they are often modified and there is internal noise RFI to worry about.

One still sat on a shelf, the other had gravitated to the office sound system, and, when compared to the other gear, it screamed for an upgrade.

A quick Google search showed these had been modified by others. It was a surfacemount small outline package. Four sheet metal screws and three machine screws later, I had the cover off the player.

Five more screws, and the PC board was loose. On the bottom, as advertised, was IC The website had mentioned some folks had difficulty removing this chip and lifted pads. The box. Reliable Reviews did not have the CD mark on it, but I still assumed it would have lead-free solder.

Using braid wick and a 1. The chip did not come loose. I noticed several very small hardened glue blobs on the edge of the PC card. The IC had been cemented into place before soldering. Cutting all four leads on one side allowed me to pry up the chip with a small knife tip. Then using solder wick, I picked up the first four loose leads, then the other four with the chip all at once. I now had a nice clean set of pads.

To confirm that the chip was a dual op amp, I tried to Google the part number marked on the chip—no luck. I then checked for continuity between pin eight of my chip and the same pin on two other similar chips. All were connected. Then I tried pin 7, no continuity.

A single. The next problem was that the Burson dual op amp would not fit under the PC card; it was too big. The matched singles looked better, but they still were too thick and had too many leads.

The singles also had two PC cards, with the op amp on one and the other a lead holder and ground plane. So it was time to change the second PC card to a piece of 0.

Now I had a single inline version of the op amp. Worse, the 20 gauge wire leads tore. Fortunately, under where the IC had been were two vias from the other side that carried inputs. The other two inputs had vias just outside where the IC had been. The outputs had vias to the coupling capacitors. I took a piece of stranded wire, split the stranding, and used each individual conductor to fit into a via hold. I then connected these short jumpers to the Burson SIP modules.

A small spacer added to the back made sure the modules would not short. I wanted to know what the Burson did by itself, so I left them alone. I then powered up the modified unit and the stock one. I burned matched CDs for each. At first I just listened to be sure both worked. Then I left them running because the workbench amplifier actually needs to warm up a bit. Burson recommends a hour burn-in for their modules! I went back to the two CD players and took a quick listen and measurement.

Another of the Burson meager specifications failed. This is half the voltage the Burson op amp is supposed to require. So to do a fair comparison, I would now need to add a power supply to the CD player. Before I did that, I decided to do the deferred electrical tests to see at which supply voltages and loads the module worked best, because the datasheet gave a range which was alaudioXpress September A spec that at least was close!

Turns out I did not need to change the power supply. The distortion drops a bit at 12V and above. Figures 5 and 6 present another difference from the instruction sheet. The distortion is really 0. Burson just claims less than 0. Not only is the distortion low, but the higherorder products—the ones that sound bad—are almost immeasurable. This test is done at unity gain, which would cause the nasty harmonics to be larger.

Using the op amp with a gain of 20 or so would be even better. If you think this is expensive, compare it to the betterknown John Hardy op amp. One final short comment is that Burson expects you to use this discrete op amp as an upgrade to existing products.

Of course, you can use this in new projects such as a power amplifier and eliminate more than half of the circuitry with something that is significantly better. This is truly a great DIY piece of gear. But then they probably want to sell you their version of But if you are a really maniacal DIYer, you could buy a few hundred of each transistor type and match them, lay out a few different versions of the PC card to see how things interact, and even manage to select really good-sounding resistors instead, but it is your choice.

You may find that to buy all the parts actually costs about the same as the complete module. In conclusion Burson has produced a poor datasheet that does not live up to their product.

A comparison of the stock amp to the Burson Pro version is smoother, sweeter, reaches higher without straining, and has depth that others only dream of. It does not work miracles, but is a noticeable improvement.

The next step will be to build an amplifier using the Burson discrete op amp as a front end. I may even upgrade my preamp with a pair of modules. In pro use these should be a great microphone preamplifier. The incorrect dimension measurements relate to an older generation of Burson Opamp. Since your review, they have been corrected accordingly. Reliable Reviews The various working voltage and power consumption measurements listed on our instructions were recommended to ensure the most satisfactory outcome for our customers.

They are not the minimal working requirements for the Burson opamp. For five years we have worked tirelessly to alert fellow audio designers about the shortcomings of integrated circuitries ICs in any audio design, and to inform fellow audiophiles of the supremacy of the Burson opamp over any IC op amps. It is therefore most satisfying to finally receive formal recognition for our hard work by one of the most authoritative audio magazines in the English speaking world. For more information, visit www.

Reliable Reviews Burson Audio Modules For this review I received two clear light anodized aluminum alloy family, or , I think extruded tubing cutoffs 1. For some reason, I expected Teflon, but this seemed to be silicone over fiberglass. The box Reliable Reviews did not have the CD mark on it, but I still assumed it would have lead-free solder. Before I did that, I decided to do the deferred electrical tests to see at which supply voltages and loads the module worked best, because the datasheet gave a range which was alaudioXpress September 31 Reliable Reviews ready shown to be inaccurate.

But then they probably want to sell you their version of 32 amplifiers, preamps, and so on. Burson Audio. Published on Oct 21, Go explore.

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audioXpress 2009

All items in category Project Articles. March 2, by Bill Christie. Bill Christie decided to build one using a TI high-performance op-amp, since the data sheet already included the schematic for a phono preamplifier. This article was originally published in audioXpress, July

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Burson Audio Modules For this review I received two clear light anodized aluminum alloy family, or , I think extruded tubing cutoffs 1. For some reason, I expected. Teflon, but this seemed to be silicone over fiberglass. Each card had 16 TO92 cased semiconductors, 15 fixed resistors, a single silver mica capacitor, and a Bourns multiturn cermet trimpot.

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